Angelina Hue

My first visit to Siem Reap was in 2005. I hadn’t expected to return. With many places that I wanted to discover, my younger self had checked it off an arbitrary bucket list. Pictures of the growing crowds at Angkor Wat over the years also quelled any desire to return.

Then the Covid pandemic happened. The throngs of tourists disappeared, and they have been slow to return. Could this be a rare opportunity to experience the Angkor temples without the crowds?

In 2023, I went back to Siem Reap, with AB who had never been to Cambodia. Nearly two decades had passed since the first time I set foot in Siem Reap. It was inspiring to experience everything, new and familiar, with fresh perspectives.

I also realised that much of what I am drawn to has remained the same. Like a certain tree with a distinctive curve at Ta Prohm. Like the distant sighting of Angkor Wat from Phnom Bakheng. Like lesser-known spots with no crowds for the quiet.

Back in 2005, information online about the Angkor sites was far more scarce than it is today. Most of what I knew came from a counterfeit Lonely Planet that we bought from a tout outside Angkor Wat.

I had a Canon film camera with me on that trip. While I no longer have the prints, I had managed to get the negatives scanned. These helped me piece together most of my maiden visit to Siem Reap despite my sketchy memory of my time there. Certain impressions and observations from that brief sojourn remain clear to this day.

For instance: Go against the flow to skip the crowds. Most tour groups follow a set sequence of the “Small Circuit” in the Angkor Archeological Park which includes Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm. I also made a mental note to bring a thermos of hot tea to enjoy at sunrise at Angkor Wat. Like that Japanese couple who was enjoying their steamy beverage while everyone else was busy taking photos. 

On the more recent trip, we decided against waking at an ungodly hour and to instead enjoy the sites at our own pace. So, no tea sipping at sunrise. The sky coming aglow, in swatches of purple, pink, and orange, as the sun inched its way up from behind the three spires of Angkor Wat was mesmerising. I didn’t need to recreate this memory.

It was a good decision to visit Siem Reap in 2023. There were far fewer visitors than in the years preceding the pandemic. We were able to explore the grounds leisurely. We weren’t swamped by loud tour groups. There were barely any selfie sticks nor tourists lining up for a certain shot to post on their social media. 

Certain things have changed, from what I remember from 2005. More local children used to hang around some of the more notable sites. Some hawking trinkets, others loitering about in hope of getting some candy or money. Structures have appeared over some stairs to reduce wear and tear as more people visit.

Reflecting on these two trips, my first time exploring the Angkor sites was like a teaser. 18 years on, I have a deeper, nuanced appreciation of what they represent. I shall try to elaborate in a future post.

I was also reminded of how ephemeral our time on earth is. Relative to these ancient structures. As well as relative to Mother Nature. Like that Tetrameles nudiflora at Ta Prohm which would probably continue to grow for decades to come.

Happy New Year, and may 2025 bring good tidings, positivity and peace.