Angelina Hue

It had been more than five years since my last visit to France, as well as Europe. I was excited to return after so long but also felt a tinge of uncertainty. How much have things changed? Would the reality fall short of my memories and expectations? 

As we travelled across the country by train and by car, it was striking how much space there is in France. Compared to Hong Kong, Singapore and Japan, the three lands where I’ve spent most of my time in the recent years.

What defines “space”? It goes beyond the physical. It’s a mental state as well as an emotional one. From having space to think and reflect to being in a space that feels safe, to be you. Where you could be in the moment and not already planning ahead for the next moments or days.

The light’s different in France. Somewhat diffused, softer than back home. The warm summer air was dry and clean. The pace of life, slower. No one seemed to be in a hurry to be somewhere else. Sometimes it’s as though there’s little consideration for the passing of time. Let’s lie in the sun by the lake. Let’s stand in the streets talking about life, anything.

For the three precious weeks we had in France, we narrowed it down to three cities and one commune. Paris, where we once called home, was a shoo-in to catch up with friends whom we’ve not met for a long time. Grenoble, for the mountains and to explore an unfamiliar corner of the country. Arles, just for Les Rencontres d’Arles photo festival. Then there was La Ciotat that I had heard so much about from AB and wondered if it could be our future home. 

It’s hard to distil our time in France into a few short paragraphs. So here’s noting down what left a strong impression.  

The blue skies, water and air. The craggy mountains that seem to go on and on. The different flora in the woods and jungles. I could gaze at these for a long time. Aside from there being fewer skyscrapers, buildings felt more human-scale and less daunting. Old buildings have their place alongside modern ones, retaining each neighbourhood’s character amidst changes.

Some days I woke early for 7AM calls with my colleagues in Asia. The plus side: Sublime sunrises. From the terrace of our mountain gîte in Grenoble, watching the sun cloak the sky in dusty pink and purple before its rays reach the tops of the snow-capped massif de la chartreuse. Feeling the warmth as the sun emerged from the distant horizon of the Mediterranean as I sat on the balcony of an Airbnb apartment in La Ciotat. I would soon turn away to protect my eyes, stepping inside to get a shot of caffeine before hunkering down to my laptop. 

It’s great to have access to a well-connected train network, both for traveling within France and the European Union. The trains may not be the newest nor the cleanest, and train travel can be susceptible to labour strikes in France, but that’s okay. I also appreciate that no one was watching videos or doing a call aloud on their mobile devices.

I love rustic, crusty breads and buttery, flaky croissants. Having access to quality aged comté and cantal at a reasonable price makes me happy. Likewise, independent bookshops curated by people who care. I like how art is more accessible to everyone and less elitist in France than in Hong Kong.

When I lived in Paris, I didn’t find it dirty. Sure, dog poop and pee stains were omnipresent. But I wasn’t bothered. Going back now, I finally understood why some people thought otherwise. I hadn’t noticed the smells as much before!

While it was liberating to have so much physical space around us, it also meant that things were more spread out and we had to get around by car in some parts. This was the case in La Ciotat and Grenoble which were more car-orientated than I had expected. In Grenoble, we stayed in a gite that was up a steep winding mountain road that I would not walk on at night.

Going away for a while and being in a different environment helps to put things in perspective.

There’s nowhere we know of that’s like Lamma Island. Where you’re surrounded by rugged nature and no car traffic to compete with the birdsong. Where you’d be in the centre of a major city within 30 minutes and at one of Asia’s aviation hubs within an hour. If only the air were cleaner. After all, you can buy clean food and water but you cannot buy clean air.